Fashion · London
The Met Gives John Galliano the Show Only Two Living Designers Got Before
'John Galliano: Horizons' — the 2027 Costume Institute exhibition — starts where he did: the 1984 Central Saint Martins graduate collection that London made famous.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art has named its spring 2027 Costume Institute exhibition, and it belongs to a designer London trained. 'John Galliano: Horizons' opens 9 May 2027 and runs to January 2028 — the first major museum show to examine the full breadth of Galliano's four-decade career, and the centrepiece of the 2027 Met Gala.
The scale of the honour is the story. Galliano becomes only the third living designer given a solo Costume Institute exhibition, after Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 and Rei Kawakubo in 2017. The show traces his evolution from his 1984 Central Saint Martins graduation collection through Givenchy, Christian Dior and Maison Margiela, through garments, accessories, sketches, toiles, research books and archival material.
Third living designer in the Costume Institute's history — after Saint Laurent and Kawakubo — and the story starts at Central Saint Martins.
That starting point is why this is a London story. The career the Met is canonising was built here: a graduate collection out of Saint Martins in 1984 that became fashion legend, decades before the French houses came calling. The retrospective will also address the controversies of his past rather than edit around them — a decision that has already made the show a debate as much as an exhibition.
The pipeline it celebrates — art-school London to the top of the industry — is still running: the same school's graduates fill the London Fashion Week schedule announced this month. The Met just confirmed where that road can end.